Ai-Ais Transfrontier park, Luderitz, Tiras Mountains, Sesriem and Sossusvlei, Walvis Bay, Swakopmund, Omaruru, Windhoek, Etosha National Park, Opuwa, Rucana Falls, Waterberg Plateau, Grootfontein, Caprivi strip.
General - History
Namibia is one of the youngest countries in Africa, as it only became independent in 1990. In colonial times it was part of Germany as the Germans, Portuguese and British agreed on the borders of South West Africa (SWA) in 1890. Germany was mainly interested in the diamond mines in Ai-Ais and around Luderitz. The German colonial times didn’t last that long as during WWI South Africa invaded in 1914 and Germany faced their defeat in May 1915. In 1919, under the treaty of Versailles, SA got mandate to govern South West Africa. Germany had to renounce all it’s colonial claims and by 1920 all the German farms were given to SA settlers and the mines were incorporated into the SA consolidated diamond mines (nowadays Namdeb). While the mandate was renewed by the UN after WWII SA was more interested to annex SWA. They scrapped the terms of the mandate and rewrote the constitution. Despite pressure from the UN SA refused to release their grip on SWA. A political organisation, called SWAPO, starting fighting for independence. After the international courts upheld the SA mandate as legal SWAPO started with guerrilla fighting in 1966. In 1972 the UN finally declared the occupation of SWA by SA as illegal. When Angola became independent in 1975 it was sympathetic to SWAPO, allowing them to set up basis in the South of Angola. SA responded by invading Angola, leading to the Cubans sending many troops to Angola to support the Angolan military. The invasion of Angola failed, but fighting between the different countries last until late in the 1980’s. Finally in 1988 under pressure of the major economical decline and the war costing SA more than US$250mln per year and got SA to participate in negotiations for independence of SWA. And in 1988 a deal was finally struck between SA, Cuba, Angola and SWAPO. In 1990 the first election in Namibia was held and leader of SWAPO Sam Nujoma, after 30 years of exile, was sworn in as the first president of Namibia.
Ai-Ais Transfrontier park (Ai-Ais hotsprings and Fish River Canyon
On August 21 we crossed the border to Namibia with a surprisingly fast procedures at the South African side with numbered offices from 1 to 3 (admittingly; it was a Sunday morning). We visit all offices to get our passports and the carnet de passage stamped and get the clearance from the police. It just took us 20 minutes to get to the Namibian side of the border. The actual border entrance was closed for construction and no signs were placed explaining where to go… We decided to drive around a couple of buildings and park the car continuing on foot to find the offices. We headed for the first office we saw, which turns out to be the office for signing the carnet de passage, the employee signs it and our car is officially in Namibia before we are. Two more offices to go to get the passports stamped and the road tax paid. After that we were good to go. Within one hour we were driving into Namibia towards Ai-Ais hot springs resort in the Richtersveld/Ai-Ais Transfrontier Park. The park is mainly formed around two rivers; the Orange and Fish River.
The hot spring is at a constant temperature of 65 degrees and too hot to go into. It is used to supply the hotel and campsite of hot water and for the spa with pools at different temperatures. After a couple of days without any hot water we spent a couple of hours soaking in the pools.
Next stop was Fish river canyon measuring 160km in length, up to 27km wide and an inner canyon reaching a depth of 550m. Surprisingly the Fish River canyon actually exists of two canyons; one inside the other. Both are formed entirely differently, but that is difficult to distinguish for us while enjoying the views. At the various viewpoints we were very impressed by the exposed rock formations (sharp corners, rounded edges) and lack of plant life. When we visited early morning the views were clear, but during the sunset there is a haze over the canyon that influences the view negatively (or is it the fact that we are looking straight into the sun?).
Aus, Luderitz and Ranch Koiimasis
Aus is a very small town in the middle of… and serves as a petrol and lunch stop for us on the way to Luderitz. While walking in town it appears that all small businesses (aimed at tourists) are managed by the same family. When drinking our coffee, we are confronted with the German heritage… They make excellent espresso machines, but poor the lousiest coffee… We should have known better.
Just outside of Aus, on the way to Luderitz, there is an artificial waterhole aimed at the wild horses (feral horses). It is a very nice stop and we are served many horses near the waterhole, drinking and bathing in it. Just when we want to leave a herd of Oryx (Gemsbok) join the horses at the waterhole.
We arrived in Luderitz in the late afternoon and after cooking a lot of nights while camping decide to go to a wine & oyster bar… Unfortunately we find the recommended one closed; Cooking after all and we buy a fresh Kingklip at the local fish shop in the harbour… While driving back to the campsite however, Judith noticed a sign Diaz Wine and Oyster bar… and this one seemed to be open! We enjoyed fresh oysters, baked with various toppings. The waitress laughed as we ordered more and more oysters…she even mentioned we are doing a rather extensive oyster tasting!
In the morning we did some sightseeing in Luderitz; Shark Island, Diaz point and some of the old(er) colonial buildings (early 1900s). As it is high season in Namibia we also needed to plan our trip a bit more in exact, meaning we basically have to book all the needed reservations for Sesriem/Sousesvlei and the Etosha National Park. Although we cannot get all the accommodation on the dates we want, we replan the route a little bit to make it fit. We are now faced with two deadlines: Sesriem on August 28th, and Etosha NP on September 6th. Yes, deadlines, even when we’re on holiday with all the time in the world!
After Luderitz our next stop was planned half way between Luderitz and Seriem, as this is almost 500km. We ended up at a campsite at Ranch Koiimasis. Our campsite and the surroundings were more beautiful than we imaged on fore hand and staying an extra day seemed like a no brainer.
Sesriem and Sossusvlei
Since it is high season in Namibia we needed to plan more a head, however our planned stop near Duwesib castle didn’t look that nice, so we decided to drive closer to Sesriem, one of the most popular sights in Namibia. Not a good idea during high season as it turns out… if you don’t have a booking and spontaneously want to stay another night at the number one tourist attraction of Namibia! The only campsite within a 50-75km radius appears to be fully booked. While sipping a cold drink on the terrace of the fuel station (that also manages the campsite) we were debating on what to do next…staying in a really expensive lodge or a campsite 70km further away…then the girl for the fuel station walked up to us, she asked ‘Do you still need a campsite for tonight? Someone just called to cancel for this evening.’ So there we are thankful we can stay close to Seriem and Sossusvlei.
Our first stop in Sossusvlei is the Deadvlei. With a 4WD we are allowed to drive the extra 6 kilometers to a special parking closer to Deadvlei. Wilfred has to do his best off road driving so far…the sand is very thin and deep and the tracks are difficult to follow. At least a couple of 4wd car get stuck here everyday, but Wilfred managed to get us sound and safe to the parking from where it is ‘only’ a short walk to Deadvlei (satisfied, but very exhausted after our 2,2km walk in at temperature between 35-38 degrees we get back at the parking). Deadvlei is a large pan that has high red dunes tower up to 200 meter above the valley floor and the floor is mostly white, cracked dry mud.
The next morning we woke up at 05.00AM to start at 6.15AM with our hike up ‘Dune 45’. Yes, we learned from the day before that hiking mid day is not the best idea! Dune 45 is a huge red sand dune of more than a 150 meters high. From the top of the dune we have a ver nice view of the surroundings during sunrise. The name of the Dune, Dune 45, is not very inspiring…it appears to be 45km from Sesriem...
After descending Dune 45 we made our way to Sesriem Canyon. This canyon is only 1km long and 30 meters deep. The canyon itself is pretty small if you compare it to Fish River Canyon. However the rock formations are completely different from what we had seen so far. The short walk down below, is very pleasant compared to the temperature outside the canyon that had already reached around 30 degrees (at 10.00AM).
On our way to Walvis Bay we stopped for a coffee break at Solitaire. A very small town of nowadays 50-75 people (outside the many tourists that stop for a short break or overnight stay on their way to Walvis Bay/Swakopmund). In 1996 the town was even smaller… Ton van der Lee arrives there and meets the only two persons living in this small town. Ton stays a couple of years an even opens a small primitive restaurant and camping. He likes the fact that only a few people per day pas through the town, but than the inevitable thing happens…he gets noticed by the lonely planet…and tourist form all over the world stop in Solitaire just to eat in his restaurant or stay at his small campsite. Gone is the tranquillity, the peace and quite…so Ton sells his restaurant and campsite and leaves. Solitaire has become to busy for him.
From Sesriem to Walvis Bay
From Sesriem/Sossusvlei we drove, via Solitaire, through the Namib-Naukluft national park towards Walvis Bay. The variation of vegetation we saw during our drive is impressive; from just desert plains, to the valley of a thousand hills. It was a long day of driving, almost 350km, but as the landscape changed so often it was never boring! We never planned to stay in Walvis Bay, however after spending some time shopping, yet again, for camping stuff, we decided to book a B&B and not continue the drive to Swakopmund. An excellent choice, our B&B had really comfy beds. Yes, even better than our matrass in the Land Cruiser! And the fastest internet in Africa so far. We decided to go out for dinner after cooking every night for the last two weeks. From the window at The Raft (our restaurant) we saw couple of dolphins jumping and having some fun in the sunset. It really is a lovely sight. Walvis Bay has a lagoon that is home to many flamingo’s and we expected to see many of them…but the thousands of flamingo’s we saw is much more than we expected! In the Bay of Walvis Bay we also saw a many pelicans and they are huge! In hindsight we are very pleased to have spent the night here.
KM’s driven : 7787 (with the Landcruiser, excluding rental cars)
Total liters of fuel : 1271 liter of diesel
Fuel consumption : 6.6km per liter
Average diesel price : ZAR 12,50
Nights Camping : 51
Nights B&B/Hotel : 14
Best overnight stay : Mokala NP campsite
Fines : 0
Bribes : 0
Theft : 2 (coffee and biscuits by Vervet monkeys)
Highlight : seeing a black maned lion in Kgalagadi TP (Judith) / Cheetah in Kgalagadi TP (Wilfred)
On our way to Kimberley we took a short detour into Barkley West. A small mining town with a bridge across the Orange river, but not just a bridge! Late 1900’s this bridge was built in the UK and then transported to the West Coast of SA and brought to Barkley West by Ox wagon.
Next stop was Wildekuil rock art museum, a site with more than 400 San rock art drawings! We had a private tour around the grounds. Some of the rock art is very clear to distinguish the different animals that were drawn. Next to the rock art we also learned a lot on the Xun! and Khwe San people and their journey to this part of the Africa. Dating back to the war between South Africa, Angola and South West Africa before the independence of Namibia. These San tribes originate for south of Angola and north of Namibia, but during the war the fought on the side of South Africa. Fearing for their lives they relocated in 1990 to this site. Even though they are both San tribes they speak a different language and no one of either tribe speaks both languages... Poverty is also a major problem with more than 90% of the people are unemployed. Next to that school is taught in Afrikaans, which is a very difficult language to learn and drop out percentage is extremely high (not helping to solve the unemployment rates).
In Kimberley we visited the ‘Big Hole’ the largest hand dug hole in the world (1,6 km round, 215 meters deep and now holds 40 meters of turquoise water). It was dug in search of diamonds between 1870 and 1914. Next to that there were also mechanical dug mines, with the deepest mine being 1097 meters deep. The tour gave insight in the history of Kimberley and how in the early days of Kimberly there was rivalry between two diamond companies. The two major players were Barney Barnesto and John Rhodes. In the end Barnesto sold all his claims (small plots in the mining area) to John Rhodes, who got his funding from the Rothchild family, and hence ‘The Beers’ mining company came about. The museum also holds a lot of the original buildings that were relocated to the museumgrounds near the Big Hole and walking the streets gave us a glimpse into the 1880’s mining settlement, constructed using original buildings, including a corrugated-iron church, funeral parlour, sweet shop and bank, as well as a functioning pub/restaurant and guesthouse. Even though there a still many diamonds in that hole (and its surrounding area), nowadays the Beers Diamond company makes more profit running the open air museum than they would by mining them.
During the Anglo-Boer war (1899-1902) around 1500 women and children took refuge in the mines. Before the war the Boers, escaping British rule in the Cape Colony, had been there since the mid-19th century, founding the independent Zuid-Afrikaansche Republiek (ZAR; South African Republic) in the North part of SA and establishing its capital in the then frontier village of Pretoria. But as the British turned their attention to the colossal profits being made in the diamond and gold mines, it was only a matter of time before the events that led to the Anglo-Boer War were set in motion. After suffering severe losses, particularly in British concentration camps, the Boers conceded defeat, leading to the ‘Peace of Vereeniging’ treaty and ultimately to the Union of South Africa in 1910.
Mokala National Park
Mokala NP is just 70 kilometers from Kimberly and the latest NP in SA and opened in 2007. The park is named after the Tswana word for ‘camel thorn tree’, the dominant tree found in Mokala and it encompasses grassy plains studded with rocky hills and the trademark trees. Indigenous to Southern Africa, camel thorns can range from small, spiny shrubs standing barely 2m to 16m-tall trees with wide, spreading crowns. Interestingly ‘Camel’ does not refer to the camel, but to the Giraffe, which used to be called ‘Camelpeerd’ and is very fond of its leaves and especially able to extract them without harming itself to the strong and long thorns.
The trees are an important resource for both the people and wildlife living in this harsh region – the local tribes use the gum and bark to treat coughs, colds and nosebleeds and some people even roast the seeds as a coffee substitute. The mammals in the 200-sq-km park include the black and white rhino, roan antelope, Cape buffaloes, giraffes and zebras.
Our campsite (one of six in total) is incredible, it has its own ablutions and overlooks a waterhole, which is visited frequently by kudu and springbok. During our game drives in the park we spotted 4 white rhinos, 2 black rhinos, plenty blue wildebeest, buffelo’s and a lot of different antelopes. In the brochure Wilfred reads an article about the rhinos and learns the funny fact about the origin of their names (believe us, they are both as grey as can be); the Dutch people would call the White rhino ‘wijd’ because of it wide mouth. To the British people it sounded like the word ‘white’ and hence the second sort of rhino was named ‘black’. As mentioned, the white and black rhinos have exactly the same colour, only the head, especially the mouth, looks different and is tuned to their main food source. White rhino’s eat mainly grass and have their nose close to the ground and the black eat mostly leaves from bushes and have their head a bit more lifted in the air. We were very pleased to see the Roan and Sable antelope as these antelopes are endangered species.
Augrabies National Park
From Mokala NP we drove to Augrabies National Park, renowned as the world’s sixth-tallest waterfall, created by the Orange (Gariep) River thundering into a ravine below. On the way we stopped at Die Mas brandy and wine estate. In this region 10% of all South African wines are produced and this a one of the few small independent estates. Most farms grow grapes and sell the grapes to the Orange river Winery which produces 90% of the region’s wine. Wilfred did a brandy tasting and purchased a bottle of the ten years old brandy. On arrival at the Augrabies NP we noticed a familiar car in the parking lot…Ben and Debby (the Swiss couple we shared the container with) are staying there as well. We spent the night braaing and talking until late.
It is also the first campsite were the vervet monkeys are very cheeky…Wilfred is preparing coffee in the morning and only within the few seconds he is getting water from the car…our coffee pack is nicked. Other than the monkeys the campsite is a lovely place and we decided to stay longer before heading to Richterveld Transfrontier park. We spent the next two days doing laundry, cleaning…all the same chores as at home and Wilfred made two water taps at the back of the car, so now we have filtered and unfiltered water taps and not only a tap inside the car.
It is not the best time to visit the falls, which would be shortly after the rainy season. Unfortunately last year the rainfall was minimal and we saw little water in the falls (and plenty of pictures at the reception of how it could be; water would come out of every direction with immense power). The San name of the park is ‘Aukoerbis’, meaning place of great noise, and after rainy-season run-off, its thunderous roar is nothing short of spectacular. We spent an hour or so hopping from one lookout to another, accompanied by fluffy dassies (rodent like mammals, that are actually evolved from elephant like ancestors… according to the museum at Addo Elephant Park) scrambling across giant boulders. The falls crashes into an 18km-long ravine with 200m-high cliffs. The main falls drop 56m, while the adjoining Bridal Veil Falls plunge 75m.
Richtersveld/Ai-Ais Transfrontier Park
In South Africa first attempts to turn the Richtersveld area into a National park started in 1974 and the negotiations with private landowners lasted almost 18 years. Only in 1991 the Richtersveld National park was a fact. In the south of Namibia there was the Ai-Ais National park bordering on the Richtersveld NP across the Orange River. In 2003 a treaty was signed between SA and Namibia to establish the Richtersveld/Ai-Ais Transfrontier Park. The climate of the park is dominated by a subtropical high-pressure belt, which causes aridity of the region. The average rainfall per year is only 82mm in the last 25 years (and we actually felt some drops on the last night, weren’t we lucky ;-)). The area is regarded as a remote inhospitable and only true dessert of South Africa. As we are visiting during the winter the temperatures during the day are around 25 degrees and at night 12 degrees. It was the first time that we didn’t change into our jeans and long sleeves in the evening. We camped two nights on the banks of the Orange River and one night in the Kokerboomkloof (Quiver tree canyon). The landscape is mostly mountainous with loose rocks. While walking at the look out point Wilfred hear a (frightening) hollow sounds while walking on, what he thought was a sold rock… On closer inspection we noticed the rock existed of many layers, sometimes with air in between explaining the hollow sound (like wrongly laid tiles in a bathroom). We were also surprised when entering the park that there is active mining going on in the conservation area and also farming by the local communities. After four days of camping without a hot shower we were very happy to have nice warm water at our campsite in Vioolsdrif, the last night of our stay in South Africa.
Garden route and last fitments to the Landcruiser
After Addo Elephant NP we're headed back to Brackenfell (near Cape Town). We drove the garden route from Port Elizabeth to Mosselbay. The views of the coastline are really nice. Despite a turn in the weather (it has dropped again to 13 degrees) we enjoyed the route and Wilfred loves driving through the mountain passes. He was somewhat disappointed that two passes are closed due to bad weather conditions and he needed to stay on the highway (N2). Although not yet flower season we can see the first flower buds blossom. It is so much nicer then what we remember of ten years ago. But at that time we had continuous rain on the garden route.
On the garden route our first stop was in Jeffrey’s Bay and Cape St Francis, two small seaside towns, with nice surfing possibilities. Especially in Jeffrey’s Bay where the world championship was held the beginning of July. Surfers from all around the world come to this town for the so-called ‘super tubes’. From there we drove to Mossel Bay and stayed at a campsite right at the beach. We visited the Dias museum where they have a replica of the ship of Bartolemeu Dias, who first sailed past Cape of Good Hope in 1488. This paved the way for Vasco di Gamma to sail towards India; a passage also used a lot by the VOC. The replica was built in 1987 in Lisbon and sailed with a crew of 17 members to Mosselbay in 1988 taking 3 months whereas in 1488 it took Dias, with a crew of 40 persons, 6 months. From Mossel Bay we visited ‘De Hoop Nature reserve’ a small reserve with two exceptional animals that can be spotted; the blesbok (a similar antelope as the bontebok, only in different colours) and the southern right whale. As it is breeding season we spotted a lot of whales just before the shoreline. Due to the too shallow water we unfortunately did not see any impressive tails.
Then it is time to drive toward Brackenfell to have some minor adjustments made to our Landcruiser. At the last minute we also decided to replace the shocks of our car as well, with a much better stability as a result (Although the previous shocks were still good (meaning not leaking), they were already 10 years old)). Since they are still good, we decided to take them along as spare parts, in case anything happens during our trip. As the weight of the roof has increased with the new box and the sand plates, we also get two new gas cylinders for the pop up roof to install at a later time.
Cederberg Wilderness area and Namaqua region
And at last…on July 26th we left Brackenfell towards Cederberg Wilderness area. We drove a very nice route through the Cederberg mountain range already enjoying the first wildflowers blooming. The next day we stopped in Clanwilliam, a town renowned worldwide for it’s rooibos tea. During a tea tasting of only rooibos tea we learned that there are 7 ‘clans’ of rooibos tea. Our biggest surprise was that rooibos tea isn’t actually a tea bush, but some sort of green grass. The red colour coming from an oil in the stems that is pressed during the fermentation process.
At a campsite near Klawer, in the wine region of Olifantsrivier, Wilfred tries
d to pop up the roof…and almost hurts his back…this was never so heavy! As it is almost dark and difficult to address the problem we decided to just take one of the rooms at the campsite. The next morning we parked our car in the garage of the owner and he helped Wilfred to pop up the roof…and with some extra effort they get the roof up and put a huge log of wood under to keep it open. The problem is immediately located; one of the gas cylinders is leaking and has no power whatsoever. We realized that we are extremely lucky it didn’t break while we were sleeping. Wilfred replaced the gas cylinders for the new ones and problem solved. In the afternoon we treated ourselves to a nice wine and biltong paring at the Spuitdrift wine estate and decide spend another night at Highlanders campsite.
As we need to be in the Kgalagadi National Park by August 2nd the next couple of days are focused on getting there with an overnight stop in a small mining town close to Hondeklip bay, Koiingnaas. The next day we cross through the Namaqua NP and see our first field filled with orange wild flowers and stop at an ancient prison on the way to Springbok. The prisoners had to build their own prison; before they started work on building the Wildeperdepass to carry copper ore with ox wagons form Koiingnaas to Springbok. Unfortunately for the prisoners the pass was never used for this purpose as parallel a railway was built and transportation via rail was much more efficient then by ox wagons. During the weekend towns are extremely busy and this weekend is even worse, the last weekend of the month and people have received their pay check…Judith had first hand experience of standing in queues…first almost 30 minutes to get some money from the ATM and in line at the supermarket for almost one hour. The lines were till the end of each aisles making shopping for groceries very difficult. Wilfred finally found a parking space after almost 40 minutes and after one hour went into the SPAR to see what’s taking so long, as Judith finally emerged with the groceries.
Loch Maree and Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Next stop was Upington, mostly a town used as stopover for visits to the Kgalagardi Transfrontier Park. It is a large town and we decide to drive a little bit further to Spitskop Nature reserve for our overnight stay. Unfortunately, it is under new management and no visitors are allowed…as the saying goes…’this is Africa!’; you never know when something unexpected will happen, but at certain times it will! As it was still early during the day we drove towards Askham (just 170km in the direction of the Kgalagadi NP). There are many campsites along the route from Upington to Askham and we ended up at Loch Maree Guest farm. As there were hunters in the field camp (where you have electricity and hot water from solar energy) the hostess asked us if we needed electricity as she preferred that we stayed at their bush camp. Meaning no electricity and hot water only by means of a donkey geyser (you need to get a fire going and after a 1,5-2 hours you will have some hot water). As we have a solar panel we stayed in the bush camp and it is an amazing place, in the middle of the red sand dunes. The next day we drove the 4x4 red dunes trail on the guest farm, crossing many red sand dunes with some really tricky parts of very soft sand. The Landcruiser is amazing and without any problems it got us up every sand dune. While driving this trail we realized again that the limitation are not the car but the driver…
A couple of weeks ago we booked our visit to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, as it is the most popular park for South Africans to visit themselves. Luckily for us we could still squeeze in 4 nights of camping from August 2 till 6. The park straddles the border between South Africa and Botswana and comprises two adjoining national parks: Kalahari Gemsbok National Park in South Africa and Gemsbok National Park in Botswana. The name means place of thirst, as it is a semi-dessert environment. The terrain consists of red sand dunes, sparse vegetation, occasional trees, and the dry riverbeds of the Nossob and Auob Rivers. The rivers are said to flow only about once per century. The Nossob river last flowed in 1963 and the Auob river in 2000. However, water still flows underground and provides life for grass and camelthorn trees growing in the riverbeds.
During the day the weather is lovely with temperatures of 20+ degrees, however the nights are extremely cold -7,5 degrees at 06.00AM when we got up to get ready for our game drives. Judith is very glad with the hot water bottle and we used all the blankets we brought with us to keep warm at night.
Our game drives in the park are very successful and we have seen many different animals; gemsbok (oryx), springbok, blue wildebeest, giraffe, lion, cheetah, spotted hyenas, martial eagle, pale chanting goshawk, secretary bird, ground squirrel, cape fox, African wild cat, yellow mongoose, black backed jackal and to complete our ‘big five’ sighting, finally a leopard.
Witsand Nature reserve
After 4 days of getting up at 06.00AM and way to many pictures, our next aim is Witsand Nature reserve. In the reserve flowing white dunes are cradled by contrasting red Kalahari sand dunes and it houses the famous Roaring Sands (Brulsand) of the Kalahari (countless millions of grains of sand rub together to emit a deep reverberating hum. For this natural phenomenon to occur, very hot and dry conditions are necessary). Although Witsand, in the Kalahari, is warm all year round, summer is the best time to experience this extraordinary sand chorus. As it is early spring, we didn’t hear this ‘roaring’ when climbing the sand dunes. Wilfred also had another purpose for this visit… sand boarding! It was more strenuous then snow boarding, especially the way up! After 8 times walking up the dune, not yet able to get down in one go, Wilfred decided it was enough for now. More practice in Namibia…